A.R. Genève / Procurement
Gemstone sourcing standards
Mandatory release rule
Every gemstone used in an A.R. Genève watch or companion piece must be natural and individually identifiable on a GIA report covering the finished stone. Where GIA issues one report for multiple stones, it must identify and describe each finished stone separately so each can be reconciled to its position in the piece. A supplier certificate, invoice, donor report, screening result or batch statement alone does not satisfy this rule. GIA issues laboratory reports. Our policy refers to these as GIA reports in public copy.
At delivery, each watch or set includes the GIA report or a complete copy covering each stone, plus a stone-to-position record. If a suitable report cannot be obtained, stop the purchase or release and revise the sourcing or design. No substitution or exception is authorised.
Reference purchase specifications
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Quiet Gravity Emerald · Two natural emerald baguettes. Match face-up green, dimensions, outline, transparency and alignment as a pair. Reject dyed or coated stones. Declare and approve any reportable clarity enhancement before purchase.
Quiet Gravity Ruby · Two natural ruby baguettes. Match face-up red, dimensions, outline and alignment. Reject diffusion-treated, dyed or fracture-filled stones. Any heat treatment requires written approval before purchase.
Elizabeth Purple · Two natural, deep royal-purple baguettes matched for hue, size and face-up appearance. Confirm species before purchase. If diamonds are selected, require natural colour documented by GIA.
Elizabeth Pink · Two natural, restrained pale-pink baguettes matched for colour, scale and alignment. Confirm species before purchase. If diamonds are selected, require natural colour documented by GIA.
Anastasia · One natural hazel-to-deep-green gemstone selected for its colour in neutral light, outline and secure fit at twelve. Confirm species and treatment acceptance before purchase.
Kikita · Proposed 0.15 ct Fancy Intense Purple, VS1 natural-colour diamond donor, GIA report 6234175554 as cited in the reference catalogue. This is the donor target, not a finished-stone grade. The two finished hearts require their own GIA coverage. A report describing natural colour may be appropriate for smaller finished hearts if accepted by GIA. Confirm cutting yield, matching and report eligibility before authorising the cut.
These are purchase targets and acceptance criteria. Record measurable dimensions and tolerances on the approved setting drawing before requesting final quotes. Compare paired stones in the same neutral light, face-up and side by side. Reject chips, fractures or inclusions at a critical setting point unless specifically cleared by the setter and technical reviewer. Never publish a colour grade, clarity grade, treatment or origin unless documented for the relevant stone.
Vendor qualification
Use specialist dealers, cutters and setters who can provide verifiable identity and trading history, traceable stock, treatment and origin disclosures where known, sample photography and measurements, and insured custody and shipping. Require a named person responsible for discrepancies and agreed inspection, return and replacement terms. Cutting and setting partners must show relevant miniature work and be able to work to the approved tolerance and inspection plan. Refuse undocumented intermediaries, unverifiable report numbers, undisclosed treatments and unapproved substitutions. A recognisable vendor name does not replace item-level checks.
Procurement workflow
1. Product approves stone type or the shortlist, colour target, dimensions, retention and treatment criteria.
2. Procurement sends the controlled drawing and report requirement to qualified vendors. The quotation separates stone, cutting, report, shipping and replacement costs.
3. Before accepting a stone, check the report number against GIA Report Check and match the physical stone to the report using dimensions, weight, shape, identifying features and inscription where present. Record vendor, invoice, report number, images and custody.
4. If cutting or reworking changes the stone, obtain applicable GIA documentation for the finished stone before release. For Kikita, keep the donor and both finished-stone records linked.
5. Inspect the loose stones before setting. Inspect final retention, alignment, dial clearance, surface condition and matching after setting. Record each stone position and sign off independently from the vendor.
6. Release only when the physical watch, stone-position record and reports reconcile. Include the report or complete copy for each stone in the delivery pack. Retain controlled copies and record any later service replacement under the same rule.
Watchmaking standard and claims
Our benchmark is the precision and documented workmanship associated with fine Swiss watchmaking. Require signed drawings, incoming inspection, traceability, controlled setting, finished-watch checks and written release sign-off. Publish “Swiss Made,” Swiss movement or other origin claims only after separately verifying the applicable requirements and the evidence for that specific reference. Gemstone reports establish information about the stones and do not establish the watch’s origin.